Leather Glossary

Here are descriptions of leather terms you may have heard, along with source credit. (Updated: 2020-01-17)

Alligator Leather - Alligators may look very similar to crocodiles but, in fact, they come from a different type of animal family. The various anatomical differences between the two species are very similar to the degree of differences between mice and rats. Because the metabolism of alligators is much slower than that of crocodiles, their lifespan is usually twice as long. Alligators are found in the marshes, lakes and rivers of North America (Mississippi) and China. Chinese alligators usually measure 1.8 meters in length, while the American variant can reach six meters. In the United States, their population has grown from approximately 100,000 to 1.5 million alligators. In addition, 500,000 alligators are kept in breeding stock in the USA. Each year, approximately 33,000 hides of free-ranging alligators are processed in the USA and approximately 275,000 of breeding alligators. 85 percent of them come from Louisiana. - Leather Dictionary
Altered Leather - Leather that has had the original surface of the skin or hide removed, (usually due to imperfections in the original grain surface), and a new grain embossed into the leather. This is also called corrected grain. Most top-grain leathers have altered or corrected grain. - Hancock & Moore
American Bison - American Bison Leather is stronger than traditional steer hide and is also supple and durable. They showcase marks of a range animal, the natural grain of bison hides is not corrected with artificial embossing or plating. - Hancock & Moore
Aniline - Dyes and finishes that contain no pigment. When used on leather they provide a rich, clear stain that allows the natural character of the article to be seen. - Horween
Aniline Dyeing - The process of dyeing the hide with transparent dyes which penetrate the cell layers throughout. This process produces deep, vibrant colors while simultaneously preserving the unique characteristics and natural markings of the hide. This process could be compared to staining wood as opposed to painting it. - Will Leather Goods
Antiqued/Distressed Grain - Any type of leather which has been treated to age the appearance of the material to give it an antique or vintage look. This weathered look is often found to be appealing to some customers instead of the leather looking shiny and brand new. - Mahi Leather
Armor Leather - Heavy veg-tan leather used for shoe soles and for protective armor by historical re-enactors. - Tandy Leather
Back - (1) The main portion of a hide, obtained by cutting off the two bellies. (2) Leather made from (1) Bark Tanned Leather vegetable tanned, mainly by means of the tannins contained in the barks of trees. - Hancock & Moore
Barrel Pigmentation - Carried out in the retanning process. Very fine pigments are applied without binders so that the leather absorbs them to achieve equal colour coverage on the surface without closing the pores. They are semi-aniline leather. - Leather Dictionary
Base Coat - Color that is applied to a compatible crust color to achieve the final color of a semi-aniline dyed product. - Hancock & Moore
Base Dyes - Common (usually lower grade) dye colors used in custom colored leathers that are quickly made. Hides are dyed in advance awaiting the spray application of custom colors. - Global Leathers
BBS - Butt Branded Steers - Horween
Belly - (1) Part of the hide covering the underside and the upper part of the legs of the animal. (2) Leather made from this part. - Hancock & Moore
Belly Cut - Snakeskins that are cut on the underneath so the tanned skin shows the snake’s normally visible pattern. - Tandy Leather
Belly Grain - The tanned outer (hair or grain) layer split from a belly. - Hancock & Moore
Belting Leather - Generally a heavy weight, full–grain leather, which was originally manufactured to create pulley belts during the industrial revolution. The unique tanning process makes belting leather one of the strongest and stiffest leathers around. - Mahi Leather
Bison - Much greasier (higher fat content) and tend to have pockets of light weight (thin) areas, especially over the natural hump of the animal's back. The hides also have more natural wrinkles and striations due to the ruggedness of the animal. - Horween
Blue Split - Hide that has been split into several layers and treated with chromium during the tanning process, which gives it a bluish colour. - Mahi Leather
Boarded Leather - Production process designed to reinforce and emphasise the grain of the leather. The tanned and dyed leather is rolled under pressure over an edge. The grain side is thereby on the inside (facing the board) and is compressed. The resulting folds in the leather are as durable as an embossing. The leather can be boarded from several directions, thus giving different grain textures. - Leather Dictionary
Boardy Leather - Leather, which is stiff or not pliable. - Global Leathers
Bonded Leather - Also known as Reconstituted Leather and made from leather leftovers scraps that are shredded and then bonded together with polyurethane or latex binders onto a thin fibre sheet to give it the appearance of genuine leather. The varying percentages of real leather in the mix ranges anywhere between 10% and 90%, affecting the strength, texture and smell of such products to a large extent. Because of the substantial reduction in cost of production, it is the manufacturers popular choice material for furniture upholstery where low costs are a priority. Taking into account the broad formulation mix, durability can vary greatly too. Hence, it is generally not recommended because of an increasingly bad reputation among the general public in various industries, notably the furniture industry where durability is a major concern for consumers. - World of Leathers
Bovine - An animal belonging to the cattle or ox family. - Keleen Leathers
Brain Tanning - The hides of all mammals are suitable for brain tanning. It's a very fast process, only taking a few days, 100% natural with no need for additional "chemistry". The brain mass must be pressed into the fibre. It was traditionally stored in a special tent over wood smoke, which gave the skin a dark brown tone and also made it waterproof. Without this process the leather turns out to be whitish and water-sensitive. - Leather Dictionary
Brand - A permanent mark made by a hot iron on the skin of a cow to identify ownership. Brand markings are highly valued especially for rustic and western style upholstery items and are easily visible on full grain and even some corrected grain leather. - Leather Hide Store
Breathability - An important characteristic of full-grain leather due to its intact grain and pore structure. This means that the leather adjusts to temperature and wicks away moisture and body heat, making it extremely comfortable. - Keleen Leathers
Bridle Leather - Made using only the best quality hides that underwent a very costly intensive finishing process. This involves adding special oils, grease and coloured wax polishes to coat the top layers of the skins to give the leather a deep even color and smooth finish. Bridle leather for actual equestrian use is very soft and flexible, enabling the horse to wear it comfortably on it delicate facial skin, yet has a strong ability to handle the force of repeated use and repeal sweat and dirt. Bridle leather is only used in high end bridles; economical bridles are not crafted from this type of leather. - World of Leathers
Brush Coloring - The process of applying dyestuff to the leather by means of a brush. This is a cosmetic process. Dyes are not saturated into the hide. - Keleen Leathers
Brushed Grain / Brushed Leather - Two different ways to describe a leather/grain that has been gently brushed to create a soft nap or fuzzy texture when making suede or nubuck leather. - Mahi Leather
Buckskin - Traditional type of leather of the Indians of North America. The grain surface of deer, reindeer and elk skins was scratched away and the skin was processed to suede. Buckskin was brain tanned or tanned with fish oil or aldehyde or combinations of it. Some buckskin leathers get a finish on one of the sides. Brain-tanned leather is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting. Buckskin is used for shoes, bags and leather clothing. - Leather Dictionary
Buffalo Leather - Refers to hides from the American Buffalo (Bison) but often confused with the Asian water buffalo, a totally different breed and quality. Buffalo hides are tanned differently from cow hides as traditional tanning methods like brain and vegetable (bark) tanning are preferred to create the best possible quality leather. Grain patterns on buffalo hides are very distinct from cow hides and hides are often smaller in size despite being a larger animal as they not stretched in order to preserve their unique and desirable grain patterning. - World of Leathers
Buffed Leather - Leather from which the top surface of the grain has been removed by an abrasive or bladed cylinder or, less generally, by hand. In the case of upholstery leather the buffing process is invariably carried out by machine, though it is sometimes incorrectly described as hand buffed. - Hancock & Moore
Buffed Top Grain - The process of sanding or buffing top grain leather to smooth the high spots of imperfection. - Hancock & Moore
Buffing - The process of removing/sanding the top grain layer via an abrasive or bladed cylinder often carried out by a machine. - Mahi Leather
Bullhide - These tend to be larger and heavier hides, with heavily wrinkled shoulders. - Horween
Bycast Leather - Leather that is split with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then embossed - originally made for the shoe industry. See also PU Leather. - Hancock & Moore
Cabretta Leather - Soft leather made from the skins of certain breeds of South American or African sheep that grow hair instead of wool, used mainly for shoes and gloves as it is stronger than other sheepskins. - World of Leathers
Caiman Leather - Caimans are a subspecies of the alligators and are mostly found in South America and parts of Central America. - Leather Dictionary
Calfhide - Smaller and lighter in weight (less thick) when compared to steer or cowhide. Grain tends to be finer. - Horween
Calfskin Leather - Made from the hide of a bovine calf and of very high quality, soft to the touch, providing a well-seasoned feeling even when new. The grain pattern on the young hide is dense enough to give the appearance of almost no discernible grain. It is usually vegetable (bark) tanned to ensure top quality and highly valued for its durability. - World of Leathers
Case Leathering - A general term used to describe the leather used in travel bags and suitcases. - Mahi Leather
Cattlehide - The outer covering of a fully grown bovine animal. - Hancock & Moore
Cementable - Refers to leather(s) that can be glued as a means of final attachment during the construction of leather goods. - Horween
Centre Cut Suede - A suede split, which is trimmed and bent around the edges, leaving the best and most usable part, or the centre of the hide. - Mahi Leather
Chagrin Leather - Made from the back of horses, camels, donkey, mules and other animals. Chagrin leather is embossed by grains pressed into the leather while still damp. Used for bridle, sabre sheaths or book covers. "Real Chagrin" refers to the finely granulated skin of sharks and the characteristic surface of stingray leather. - Leather Dictionary
Chamois Leather - Made from sheep hides or lambskin, chamois leather is usually tanned with oils and is very soft and flexible. - Mahi Leather
Chrome Tanned - Leather tanned with chromium salts and/or chromium sulfate for a supple, pliable effect and to prevent discoloration and loss of shape when exposed to moisture. - Hancock & Moore
Chrome-Free - Also known as Aldehydetanned leather, this is the leather that most tanners refer to as wet-white leather due to its pale cream or white color. Used in infant’s shoes and automobiles. - Tandy Leather
Chromexcel - Manufactured only by Horween, Chromexcel is the original pull-up leather; using time honored techniques and formulas that were developed nearly 100 years ago. Chromexcel is still produced in the United States using a bark retannage from a proprietary recipe, and then genuine hot stuffed with a blend of natural oils and greases. Chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull-up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes. Chromexcel is available in a full range of weights – including 2 – 3 oz (0.8 – 1.2 mm) horsefronts and side (cowhide) leather from 3.5 – 4 oz (1.4 – 1.6 mm) up to 9 – 10 oz (3.6 – 4.0 mm). There are many variations of Chromexcel, including versions that are cementable and waterproof. Waxy feel. - Horween
Chromium Salts - Minerals used in the tanning process to make the leather supple and durable. - Keleen Leathers
Combination Tanned - Leathers that are tanned using both chrome and blends of vegetable extracts along with emulsified or unrefined oils and waxes. - Horween
Cordovan - Leather made from the tight, firm shell portion of horse butts. Cordovan has very fine pores and a characteristic finish, and is very durable. Also known as Shell Cordovan. - Hancock & Moore
Corrected Grain Leather - Corrected grain refers to the hide having its top grain layer sanded down to minimize flaws. It is then pigmented and embossed with an artificial grain and sprayed with a sealer topcoat. - Mahi Leather
Cowhide - Hide from a mature female bovine that has produced a calf. These hides are lighter in weight and have "looser" bellies (that is, a more spongy fiber structure that has more stretch). These hides tend to have more natural markings to them (healed scratches, bug bites, etc.) since cows live longer than their steer counterparts. - Horween
Crock (noun) - The coloring matter that rubs off of poorly dyed leather. - Hancock & Moore
Crock (verb) - To transfer color of rubbing. - Hancock & Moore
Crocking - Leather color or finish transferred to other materials by rubbing or abrasion. - World of Leathers
Crockproof - Leather, suede or fabric that has been treated to prevent color from rubbing off. With suede, this term means to treat to prevent shedding or rubbing off of fibers. - Hancock & Moore
Crust - Leather which has been tanned but not finished. Such leathers referred to as being in the crust. - Hancock & Moore
Curing - Tanning process of cleaning the leather - consists of soaking, liming and fleshing. - Optima Leathers
DDDM - Drum dyed, dry milled leather. - Leather Dictionary
DDDN - Drum dyed, dry Nappa. - Leather Dictionary
Deerskin Leather - Prized for its soft to the touch, suppleness, ability to breathe but yet lightweight and highly durable. The durability of deerskin originated from deer hides evolving to protect the animal in its wild natural habitat. Highly valued for its unique attributes and tear resistance, deerskin is often used in gloves and other luxury products that require these qualities. - World of Leathers
Degrained Leather - Leather from which the grain has been removed after tanning, by splitting, abrading or other process. - Keleen Leathers
Derby - Manufactured only by Horween, Derby is a version of Essex that has a smooth feel. - Horween
Distressed Leather - A leather that is aniline dyed to create an artificially well-worn and aged appearance, leaving intact all the natural characteristics of the hide such as wrinkles, scratches and healed scars to complete the desired look. - World of Leathers
Double Butt Suede - Often used as another way of saying center cut suede. - Mahi Leather
Drawn Grain - Describes the shrunken or shriveled surface condition of leather due to the poor or improper handling of hides during the tanning process. - Mahi Leather
Dressing - Term used to describe the post-tanning processes which influences the color and handle of the leather. This is done prior to the surface coating and finishing process. - Keleen Leathers
Drum Dyeing - The application of dyestuffs to leather by the immersion of the leather in a drum that is tumbled. This process allows full dye penetration into the fiber. - Optima Leathers
Dublin - Manufactured only by Horween, Dublin is a version of Essex that has a waxy feel. - Horween
Emboss - To give a flat piece of leather a pattern or texture that stands out in relief through pressing with tremendous pressure. - Horween
Embossed Leather - Usually corrected grain, in which a pattern is applied by extreme pressure in a press to give a unique design or imitation of full grain characteristics. Sometimes leathers are embossed to make them appear to be another leather, such as embossing an alligator pattern into a cowhide. - Hancock & Moore
Essex - Manufactured only by Horween, Essex is a vegetable tanned side leather that utilizes the same traditional tanning extracts as Genuine Shell Cordovan. This tannage is marked by a high oil content and ages beautifully over time. - Horween
Fat Liquored - Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with emulsified oils. - Horween
Fat Wrinkle - Naturally occurring wrinkles in the leather grains that are formed naturally during the lifetime of the animal. These are only visible in full grain and top grain hides that have not been sanded or buffed. - World of Leathers
Finish - A surface application on the leather to color, protect, or mask imperfections. More specifically, all processes administered to leather after it has been tanned. - Hancock & Moore
Finishing - Any further steps taken after the dyeing treatment such as rolling, pigmented spraying, laquering, antiquing, tipping, waxing, buffing, embossing, glazing, waterproofing or flame proofing in order to provide more abrasion and stain resistance and/or a more even surface coloration. - Hancock & Moore
Flesh Side - The underside of the animal’s hide. When looking at a piece of veg-tanned tooling leather, this will be the rough side. - Tandy Leather
Fleshing - Process of removing any remaining fats and flesh from hides by mechanical operation. - World of Leathers
Full Grain - The term used for the outside original skin or hide which has had the hair removed, but otherwise has not been corrected or altered. Full grain leather possesses the genuine original grain of the animal. - Hancock & Moore
Full Hand - Leather which is full-bodied, such as some combination tanned leathers and fine vegetable tanned leather. Also called round hand. - Hancock & Moore
Glazed Finish - A glossy, smooth, sheen imparted to leather by polishing with a glass or steel rollers. - Optima Leathers
Glove Leather - Soft leather, usually lambskin, which is used to make leather gloves. - Mahi Leather
Goatskin - Skin from a mature goat. - Will Leather Goods
Grain - The pattern characterized by the pores, cells, wrinkles and other characteristics which constitute the natural texture of leather. - Optima Leathers
Grain Character - The natural markings on the surface of the leather. - Optima Leathers
Grain Embossed - An artificial grain pressed into the surface of the top grain leather from which the original grain has been removed. - Hancock & Moore
Grain Layer - The portion of a hide or skin extending from the surface exposed by removal of hair or wool. - Keleen Leathers
Grain Split - The outer (wool or hair) layer of a hide or skin that has been split into two or more layers. - Hancock & Moore
Grain Sueded - A buffing process to raise the fibers on the grain side of a hide or skin to produce a velvet-like effect. This is also known as "Nubuck" leather. - Optima Leathers
Grained Leather - Any leather on which the original natural grain has been changed or altered by any method, process or manipulation; also top grain. - Hancock & Moore
Hair Cell Grain - Noticeable appearance of where the hair pores were on the leather. - Tandy Leather
Hand - A term that is used to describe the softness and feel of leather. - World of Leathers
Hand Antiqued - Also known as “hand rubbing” where leather craftsmen skillfully rub by hand a contrasting color onto the animal hide surface to highlight the natural leather grain pattern. - World of Leathers
Hand Glazed - Leather that has been polished with a glass rod. - Horween
Hand Rubbing - Tone-on-tone effect created by blending colors. Used to add depth and character to leather. - Hancock & Moore
Heavy Leather - A broad term used to describe leather made from unsplit cattle hides; this includes belting and mechanical leathers. - Mahi Leather
Heifer - A cow that hasn't produced any calves, thus the bellies of the hide tend to be heavier than on a cow that has had offspring. - Horween
Hide - (1) The outer covering of a mature or fully grown large mammal, e.g. cattle, horse, camel and elephant. (2) Leather made from (1) which has not been split, or from the grain split of such hide; when used in this way the name of the animal e.g. cowhide or oxhide or the type of leather, e.g. bag hide or case hide may be added. - Hancock & Moore
HNS - Heavy Native Steers. Lots must hit a predetermined average weight and include 5% or less branded hides. This is generally considered to be the best available hide. - Horween
Horsehide - Coarser grain, huge differences in weight (even across the same hide, and generally is lighter/thinner), is more abrasion resistant, has a different fiber structure, and displays much more variation and natural markings. - Horween
Hot Stuffed - Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with unrefined oils and greases. This is achieved without the use of water and emulsifiers and gives a much richer feel. Hot stuffed leathers typically exhibit pull-up and good water resistance. - Horween
Hump Hole - A narrow hole or slit along the spine in leather hides typically 6-15 inches long. The hole is a result of a large hump on the back of the neck among certain breeds of cattle such Brahman cows that must be removed during tanning. Hump holes typically do not impact yield and are increasingly common in upholstery leather. - Leather Hide Store
In the Blue - The state of hides or animals being chrome tanned after they have been removed from the tanning solution. Chromium salts cause the tanned hides to be light blue before they are dyed. - Hancock & Moore
Jupa Leather - This highly processed soft and non-slip cow hide is used almost exclusively for saddle making and utilized mainly in the seat and knee inserts to give especially comfortable seating. - World of Leathers
Kidskin - Soft leather made from the skin of a young goat. - Tandy Leather
Kipskin - The leather of a cattle in the age between calf and grown cow is called kipskin. The quality of such leather is between the finer calfskin and the coarser cowhide. - Leather Dictionary
Lambskin Leather - A soft supple leather made from the hides of young sheep under a year old that has not developed incisor teeth and its wool still unshorn. Lambskin is more delicate than other animal hides and therefore tanning must be done more gently. Hence, lambskins often only soak for several hours in acids during the tanning process rather than several weeks. Softer and suppler than most other leathers, it is deemed to be more luxurious and generally cost more than most other leathers. However, due to its thinness, it is not as durable and will be more easily damaged. - World of Leathers
Latigo Leather - Cowhide Leather that is first chrome tanned and then vegetable tanned. This combination tanning process together with the further infusion of oils and waxes, results in water resistant, highly durable, moderately stiff leathers that will become soft and supple over time through repeated use. Hence, it is often used in the manufacture of dog collars, dog leases and horse saddle straps, the strap connecting the cinch to the saddle’s rigging. - World of Leathers
Leather - Hide or skin which retains its original fibrous more or less intact. The hide is then treated and colored to enable it to be a covering for furniture, walls or floors. The hair or wool may or may not be removed. In the case of the "hair on hide", typically it is referred to as fur. - Optima Leathers
Leatherette - Leatherette is another term used to describe man-made or imitation leather. - Mahi Leather
Liming - Hair and epidermis are removed and a solution of lime (calcium hydroxide) and sodium sulfide are applied to soften and enhance hide for softness and flexibility needed for upholstery leather. - Optima Leathers
Matte Finish - A flat or dull finish. - Hancock & Moore
Metalized Leather - Leather given a metallic luster by the application of metallic foils or powders. - Hancock & Moore
Mill-Dyed - Leather that has had dyes introduced during retannage. Also referred to as drum-dyed. - Horween
Milled - During the tanning process, the leather is tumbled in a large drum shaped container to make it softer. - Tandy Leather
Milling - A natural softening process in which the leather is tumbled up in a drum using a combination of heat and misting of water. Also referred to as tumbled. Dry milling refers to tumbling in a drum with leather and only leather, no heat, oils or waxes added. - Maverick Leather
Mineral Tanned - Leather that has been tanned with mineral salts such as aluminum, chromium or zirconium salts. - Keleen Leathers
Morocco - (1) Vegetable tanned goat skin leather with characteristic grain pattern developed naturally or by hand boarding or graining only. The most common and most characteristic grain is hard grain. (2) By long usage, especially in the fancy goods trade. Goatskin of any vegetable tannage that has been hand boarded in the damp condition, but in the strict sense it should be limited to goatskin tanned exclusively with sumac. - Hancock & Moore
Naked Leather - A dyed leather that has received no topical application that may mask or alter the natural state of the leather. - Hancock & Moore
Nap - Describes the soft, "fuzzy" effect achieved in leather by buffing or brushing. - Hydes Leather
Nappa - Soft full grain gloving or clothing leather made from unsplit sheep or lambskin or kid-skin. It is usually tanned with alum and chromium salts and dyed throughout its substance. - Hancock & Moore
Natural Grain - A leather which retains the full original grain. - Hancock & Moore
NDM - Natural dry milled leather. - Leather Dictionary
Nubuck - It is usually made from aniline dyed top grain bovine leather that has been finely sanded on the outside grain surface to break up its short surface protein fibers resulting in slightly raise nap giving it a soft and velvety feel. - World of Leathers
Oak Tanned - Leather was originally tanned almost entirely with oak bark, the term was later used to also describe tanning with a blend containing oak tannin. - Mahi Leather
Oil Tanned - Certain fish oils may be used to tan the leather, resulting in very soft, pliable leather, like chamois. - Mahi Leather
Papillary - The upper portion of the hide that has been separated from the reticular or split layer. - Global Leathers
Parchment - Translucent or opaque material with a smooth surface suitable for writing, bookbinding and other purposes. It is made from the hides of sheep or goatskin by drying out the limed material without applying tannage. The material being thoroughly cleansed and degreased and smoothed during the process. - Keleen Leathers
Pasted - Leather that has been dried by fixing it to large glass or ceramic plates. Pasted leathers have very little stretch and smooth grain character. - Horween
Patent Leather - Patent leather is quality hide that has been finished with chemicals to obtain a high gloss reflective surface. This was originally achieved by several applications of a linseed oil based finish to the leather to gradually create the sleek appearance. Subsequently, the invention of plastics revolutionized the way this leather is produced. Plastic finishes were able to produce similar effects without the traditional multiple applications of linseed oil, with the advantage of considerable cost savings for the producer. It is typically black but comes in other colors too, and has long been a much sought after material for dress and dancing shoes, bags and purses too. Patent leather is processed in substantially the same manner as with other high quality leathers. However, it is at the final stage when it is coated with a high quality lacquer varnish that gives it its characteristic glossiness. - World of Leathers
Patina - A natural characteristic that develops on full grain leather through normal use over a period of time. Another term used interchangeably is "weathering". - Optima Leathers
PDM - Printed dry milled leather (embossed, dry milled). - Leather Dictionary
Pearlized Leather - Colored leather with a pearl-like luster. Pearlescent Leather Colored leather with a pearl-like luster. - Hancock & Moore
Pebble Grain - A cosmetic character resembling small pebbles on the leather’s top side. - Tandy Leather
Perforated - In leather, the process of die cutting small holes to form a pattern. The holes can vary in size, density and pattern. - Hancock & Moore
Pigmented (Protected) Leather - Sometimes a Full Grain non-premium quality hide but most often a Top Grain hide or Split hide that has been coated with a polymer surface coating containing pigments for enhanced durability, stain/fade resistance and to completely hide all imperfections and blemishes. Depending on the thickness of the coating, Pigmented leather is usually much more durable in terms of stain, scratch, color and Fade resistance when compared with Aniline and Semi-Aniline leathers but looked the least natural in appearance. It has also reduced breathability, feels somewhat stiff especially if an artificial grain pattern has been embossed, and will not develop a Patina over time unlike Aniline (Unfinished) Leather. The most commonly used leather in a wide range of industries including furniture upholstery, car seats, office seating and bags. Pigmented leather is undoubtedly classed as Finished Leather. - World of Leathers
Plating, Plated Leather - Pressing leather with a heated metal plate under high pressure. Most furniture leather is usually sanded, pigmented and plated to cover imperfections. - Hancock & Moore
Printed Leather - Leather, bearing a surface pattern, produced usually by embossing, but sometimes by other methods, e.g. by silkscreen printing. - Hancock & Moore
Production Run - Production run leather is cheaper, ungraded leather which is sold to manufacturers to use in upholstery. - Mahi Leather
Protected Aniline - A variation of Pure Aniline leather also known as Aniline Plus. The only difference between Pure Aniline and Protected Aniline is that an additional light coating of micropigments is applied to it for color consistency and to enhance its natural appearance, which also offers some protection against spillages, soiling and color fading. - World of Leathers
PU Leather - Also known as Bycast Leather because it is made using Split leather laminated with a layer of Polyurethane and further embossed with an artificial leather grain. The resulting material is stiffer but at a much lower cost than top-grain leather and has a more consistent texture because its surface is completely enveloped in plastic. Although easier to clean and maintain, it exhibits none of the desirable characteristics associated with genuine leather and will not develop a patina or suppleness nor otherwise improve with age. It has since developed a bad reputation with consumers in the furniture industry due to the polyurethane layer quickly cracking and splitting free of its backing under constant use. Originally invented for the shoe industry and subsequently adopted by the furniture industry. - World of Leathers
Pull-up - The temporary lightening of certain leathers when folded. This is caused by displacing oil and waxes. - Horween
Pure Aniline - Leather that is aniline dyed and receives no additional coloring. Also called full aniline, naked aniline or naked leather. - Hancock & Moore
Rawhide - Hides that have only been dehaired and cured but not tanned. - Tandy Leather
Reconstituted Leather - Also known as "bonded leather", reconstituted leather is made from scrap leather or leather fibres that are glued together with polyurethane. - Mahi Leather
Retan - A modifying secondary tannage applied after intermediate operations following the primary tanning. - Hancock & Moore
Rough Tanned Leather - Leather, which after tanning, has not been further processed but has merely been dried out. The term "rough tanned" is chiefly used in connection with vegetable tanned hide leathers. - Keleen Leathers
Round Hand - A full-handed leather, usually slightly swelled as with vegetable tanning. - Hancock & Moore
Saddle Leather - Vegetable-tanned cattlehide leather for harnesses and saddles, usually of a natural tan shade and rather flexible. - Hancock & Moore
Sammiering - During tanning, the process of removing the water from hides by running them through a machine which presses the water out of the hides. - World of Leathers
Sanding - The removal of grain, scars and blemishes from a hide. - Leather Furniture USA
Sauvage - The two tone effect with a mottled appearance that adds depth and character to the leather. Created two ways; by blending similar colors during the dyeing process or by mechanical process during finishing. - Optima Leathers
Selecting - The sorting or grading of hides and skins using predetermined criteria such as area, thickness, grain quality. - Optima Leathers
Semi-Aniline Leather - Usually a Full Grain premium quality hide that has been dyed in a similar process as aniline leather but with an additional light surface coating of pigment for enhanced durability and color consistency. Imperfections and flaws in the leather hide can still be seen if examined close up or using magnification. Semi-aniline Leather colors will look quite uniform but not as varied as Aniline Leathers nor as uniform as pigmented leathers. It should be classed as Finished Leather. - World of Leathers
Setting - A process which mechanically removes creases and excess water. - Optima Leathers
Shave - Hides are shaved to a particular thickness after tannage by a large shaving machine. The excess is removed from the bottom of the hide. - Keleen Leathers
Shearling - A sheepskin or lambskin that has gone through a limited shearing process to obtain a uniform depth of the wool fibers. They can be tanned with either a veg-tan method, normally used for saddles and outdoor gear, or with a chrome method, normally used for garments. - Tandy Leather
Sheepskin Leather - The skin of a sheep with the wool still intact and called a Pelt. Unlike common hides, the pelt goes through a tanning process together with the wool on it to produce a strong leather underside while also preserving the quality of the wool. - World of Leathers
Shell - A dense fiber structure found only in the hindquarters of equine animals. - Horween
Shoulder Leather - Leather taken from the shoulder area of the cow, this is a softer area of the hide and is often used in the manufacture of bags. - Mahi Leather
Shrunken Grain Leather - Leather specially tanned so as to shrink the grain layer and having a grain surface of uneven folds and valleys. Sometimes referred to as "drawn grain". This process is used to enhance the grain character of the leather. - Optima Leathers
Side Leather - Grain leather which has been cut in half, forming two sides in order to better accommodate tannery equipment. - Hancock & Moore
Skirting - Sides from cattle that are left in their heaviest form for use with saddle making and re-enactment armor. - Tandy Leather
Skive - To slice or split into a thin layer, or to reduce leather to a specific thickness. - Hancock & Moore
Snuffed Leather - Usually done through the process of abrasion, if leather is snuffed it means that it has had its top surface removed. - Mahi Leather
Soaking - When the leather arrives at the tannery it may be soaked to extrude salts used in preserving leather. This is done in revolving drums which can hold up to 200 hides. - Optima Leathers
Split - A single layer from a hide or skin that has been separated over its whole area into two or more layers. The layers thus obtained are termed: (a) top grain split (outer split); (b) flesh split (inner split); (c) in heavy hides there can also be middle split. - Hancock & Moore
Split Leather - Leather created during the splitting process when the fibrous bottom half of the hide is separated from the top grain of the rawhide. If the hide is thick enough, the resulting drop split can be split again into a middle split and another split called a flesh split. The middle split can be further split into several more flesh splits in very thick hides until the subsequent thinness finally prevents further splitting. Split leather has a polymer surface coat of pigments applied to the surface of the split and is then further heat embossed with an artificial leather grain to imitate top grain leather. Splits are often used to create Suede. It is not recommended for use in most leather products in areas where regular contact and stretching is encountered because of its weak structure. - World of Leathers
Spread - The size of a hide is known as the spread and is measured by a machine in square feet. - Mahi Leather
Steerhide - Most of the cattle raised for foodstuffs are steers. Bulls are made into steers for ranching. - Horween
Strap Leather - Used for industrial purposes, similar to belting leather, strap leather is heavyweight, thick and stiff due to its specific tanning process. - Mahi Leather
Suede - Leathers that are finished by buffing the flesh side (opposite the grain side) to produce a nap. - Hancock & Moore
Suede Split - Leather made from the flesh split of hide or skin and finished with a velvet-like nap normally on the split surface. - Hancock & Moore
Sueding - The process of raising fibers on the grain side of a hide or skin to give a velvet nap effect. This is generally called Nubuck or grain suede. - Hancock & Moore
Table Dyeing - Dyeing leather by laying out the material on a table and applying the dye with a brush – also known as "brush coloring". - Mahi Leather
Table Run - Similar to "production run", these leathers are not graded and are cheaply sold to manufacturers. - Mahi Leather
Tannery - The place in which animal hides are tanned and processed. - Will Leather Goods
Tannin - Any various solvent, astringent substances of plant origin used in tanning leather. - Keleen Leathers
Tanning - Process whereby putrescible (perishable) raw hides and skins are converted into leather. - Hancock & Moore
Temper - Refers to the rigidity of the leather and can range from very soft to very firm. For example, soft temper leather would be used for garments where firm tempered leather would be used for belts. - Maverick Leather
Tipped Leather - Leather which has a contrast color coat (either lighter or darker than the base shade) applied by a roller to the tips of an embossed grain. - Keleen Leathers
Toggled - Leather that has been air-dried after being stretched on a metal screen and clamped into place. - Horween
Tooling Calf - Normally, a very lightweight veg-tanned leather with a very clean appearance. - Tandy Leather
Top Coat - A clear, protective coating applied to the surface of the leather, which may give the leather a luster or sheen. - Mahi Leather
Top Finish - Leather which has been given a final coating of a finish to confer special properties such as gloss, color level, fastness to wet and staining. - Optima Leathers
Top Grain Leather - Hide that comes from the same top layer as full grain leather but its surface considered too flawed to become full grain leather. Hence, it is sanded or buffed to remove all surface imperfections and flaws, making it thinner and weaker than full grain leather but more pliable. A polymer surface coat of pigments is then applied to it, which is usually followed by an artificial grain embossed onto its surface, resulting in leather with markedly reduced breathability, and preventing a rich Patina developing over time. Provided the finish remains intact, it is far more resistant to stains and fading than full grain leather. - World of Leathers
Trim - The removal of the outer edges of the hide not suitable for making leather. - Optima Leathers
Unprotected Leather - This leather does not have a protective coating. Unprotected leather features more natural characteristics of the leather, it is typically softer than treated or protected leather. They are more susceptible to fading, staining or soiling. - Hancock & Moore
Upholstery Leather - A general term for leather processed for use in furniture, automobiles and airplanes. - Hancock & Moore
Vat Dyeing - Often confused with drum dyeing, vat dyeing is an older method of dyeing leather and is commonly carried out in a bucket or vat. - Mahi Leather
Vegetable Tanned - A tanning method that employs vegetable liquors derived from tree barks. This method of tanning is very traditional and takes longer to achieve than chrome tanning. - Horween
Vegetable Tanning - The conversion of rawhide into leather with a greater body and firmness than the more general method of chromium tanning. - Hancock & Moore
Veg-Splits - Veg-tanned leather that has been split with both sides having a fleshy feel. Cannot be tooled. - Tandy Leather
Weight - Refers to the thickness of the leather. Usually given in ounces or millimeters. One ounce is equal to 1/64 inch. - Maverick Leather
Wet Blue Leather - Leather which after chrome tanning has not been further processed and is sold in the wet condition. - Hancock & Moore
Wet Stuffed - Similar to Fat Liquored, Wet Stuffed leathers are nourished and conditioned with emulsified heavier oils and waxes. - Horween
Whole Hide - Refers to leather created using a full hide, as opposed to a side, and typically intended for use as upholstery leather. - Hydes Leather
Wick - The action of absorbing or dissipating moisture and heat through the fiber structure of the leather. - Mahi Leather
Yield - The amount of usable leather from a hide after all waste and imperfection have been removed. Typically 75-80% of a standard hide is usable yield. - Leather Hide Store

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